I am also going to use tempered glass to cut down on the number of people leaning backwards and ending up in the emergency room. The window seat (window bed?) is so deep that no one will be able to lean back if facing the table. I actually talked to a contractor about options (I was thinking of having subtle brackets that could hold a back piece that we could slide in to form a back rest) but this would be even better, especially as I only need it at the two ends where someone might want to lean back and read. I too want to be able to see out into the garden and not stare at a wall with high-ish windows. Mama_goose: thank you SO MUCH for that link! I have searched and searched for this but could not come up with the right set of words to bring this up. Here is a link that might be useful: Link Dampening material between subfloor and joists, and between ceiling drywall and joists - Sound-proofing paint (I've not heard of this stuff before, I am skeptical it does much) Since the bathroom is a small space, you can use these techniques without too much additional expense, and just the loss of about 6'' if using staggered studs and double drywall layers. Techniques are: - Double layers of drywall with dampening material like the referenced ''green glue'' between them (not simply screwing one sheet of drywall to the other) - Staggered studs w/ separate floor plates (essentially making two walls, no physical connection from one side to the other) - Sheet of sound dampening material between the staggered studs (reducing sound transmission through the airspace) - Sealing openings in the walls (electrical boxes, holes for plumbing, gaskets around and under door frame) - Special doors, or (less good) a conventional solid door, or (maybe an in-between alternative) a conventional door w/ a sound dampening layer on one side. Air gap is better than a rigid connection. To reduce sound, you want to reduce the transmission of vibration. Basically sound is vibration that is transmitted from the source to your ear by rigid materials (sound travels well through hard materials like wood) and air. The other one (''Suppressproducts'') might just be an advertisement for their products, I am not sure. The one immediately below, and the one that is hyper-linked, look pretty good. However, since I am not an electrician I don't know what to make of that discrepancy.Here are some resources on sound-reducing construction. When put onto the coil directly, there was no continuity.

The difference in the two pictures is that in the first picture I put the contacts from the meter on the ?outside connector? of the heating element and in the second picture I put the contacts from the meter directly onto the coil. I have attached two picture with the reading of the heating element. Sometimes there was continuity and sometimes there wasn't.

Unfortunately the results were inconsistent. So I watched a few Youtube videos and tested the heating element and fuse with a multi meter tester. Before he would produce hot air, but the clothes wouldn't get dry. Our dryer wouldn't dry the clothes, so I cleaned out the dryer vent as well as took the dryer partly apart to clean various parts and areas.Īfterwards the dryer wouldn't produce any hot air any longer. Not sure this is the right forum, but in my estimation the forum that is fitting the best.

Swinging kitchen door with porthole